A Rare Malvasia from Basilicata
The sweetness of lagoon beetroot, the depth of red tuna and a wine that holds everything together
Malvasia Nera di Basilicata is an extremely rare native grape variety and almost impossible to find vinified on its own. Over the past two years I have written to Consortia, producers, wine shops and winemakers searching for information about this grape, which has almost disappeared from the contemporary narrative of Lucanian wine. I received very few replies, but the most interesting one came from Cantina De Biase.
They explained to me that, in the territory of Grottino di Roccanova, Malvasia Nera was never meant to stand alone. Historically, its role has always been to harmonize blends, bringing softness, aromatic elegance, color and a spicy, fruity layer that makes the wine more enveloping on the palate. While Sangiovese, Cabernet and Montepulciano provide structure, acidity and aging potential, Malvasia Nera works almost in subtraction, holding everything together without ever dominating.
I was deeply struck by this idea of the grape as a “binding element”. A discreet but essential presence, capable of giving identity to the wine without imposing itself.
In Nettare dell’Enotria by Cantina De Biase, Malvasia Nera represents 15% of the blend, yet it clearly emerges in the aromatic profile and in the roundness of the palate. On the nose there are ripe red berries, sweet spices, a faint balsamic note and that velvety softness that accompanies the wine without weighing it down. The palate is generous yet balanced, with a smooth texture lifted by freshness that continuously invites another sip.
Perhaps this is the true nature of Malvasia Nera di Basilicata, not seeking protagonism, but creating harmony. And perhaps this is exactly why it continues to fascinate me so much.
In these days, the first beetroots from the islands of the Venetian lagoon have started to appear. They have a sweet, earthy and almost ferrous aroma, with a vegetal depth that in spring becomes more delicate and inviting. I paired them with lightly seared red tuna, beetroot cream and toasted bread topped with beetroot hummus.
Flavors with character but never aggressive, the sweetness of the earth, the iron-like notes of the tuna and the softness of the wine all recalled a beautiful sense of balance on the palate. This is what I continue to look for in wine, food and storytelling: not the strength of a single voice, but the harmony that emerges when different elements manage to coexist naturally.
Between Venice, the lagoon and a nearly untraceable Malvasia Nera from Basilicata, the pairing came naturally.
In tasting
Nettare dell’Enotria - Grottino di Roccanova DOP 2022
13.5% vol
Cantina De Biase
70% Sangiovese
15% Malvasia Nera di Basilicata
10% Cabernet Sauvignon
5% Montepulciano
Cantina De Biase is a family-run organic winery based in Roccanova, in the Lucanian hinterland between the Agri, Sinni and Sarmento valleys, in the heart of the Grottino di Roccanova DOP area. A historical wine territory known for its ancient caves carved into the rock, where wine has traditionally been stored for centuries thanks to naturally stable temperature and humidity levels.
The winery works exclusively with estate-grown grapes cultivated according to organic practices and with strong attention to biodiversity.
Laura Riolfatto
Wine storyteller & sommelier
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